Anybody recognize this FS&S STH-10B?

[OHIO Desperado]

YOu will need to lift the springs off the posts with some needle nose pliers. Try to either get a hold on them close to the post, or reach through the service windows and lift them up if you are leaving the housings in the bottom of the motor. The housings can be removed but make sure you mark EXACTLY where the housings were before removing them so you can properly reinstall them with the correct timing.

If the bearings show any type of rusting, replace them.
To do this you will need to remove the bearings from the armature or the housing, depending on where they are stuck.

If they are on the shaft, CLEAN THE SHAFT up with some sand paper or Emory cloth. Make sure the shaft is smooth and there are no burs on it.
Write down the bearing numbers and manufacture before going any further. You will need this info to get new bearings.

To remove the bearings the easiest way you will need to split the outer housing with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel. DON NOT use a grinder unless you are VERY good with one. A slip into the windings is a 1000 dollar screw up. That is what are rewind runs, or so I am told. cut the outer race twice, straight across from each other and the housing and balls will fall away. Races are hardened steel and can pop when cut. A pair of safety glasses and a face shield is a MUST for this. Once the outer race is gone, you can go after the inner race. It will only need split once. Again go SLOW and carefully, you are running a cutting tool right next to the windings. Screw ups here are VERY expensive. Once the bearings are cut apart and gone, you will need to install NEW bearings. Heat is the easiest way to grow the inner races and get them on the shafts. Heat from a heat gun is sufficient and will not endanger the windings. Heavy gloves, like welding gloves are needed here as the heat required will be more than what you can pick up without burning the hell out of your fingers.

Bearing care and safety.
First, NEVER directly strike a bearing with a steel hammer. You can use plastic, rubber, brass, lead, aluminum or wood. NEVER use a steel hammer. The material the bearing is made from will not deflect, distort or flex. It will burst like glass. That can blind you, bury shards in your body (personal experience here) and generally make you have a BAD day.

If it's not going into place with reasonable force, DO NOT apply more force. Pull the bearing off and clean up the shaft more. The smallest of burs on a shaft will stop a bearing from sliding into place. Emory cloth here is your friend. As is a bit of heat.

Speaking of heat, you are not looking to change the color of the steel in the bearing when heating it to install it. That will remove the hardness and ruin the bearing. If you see a bearing start to change color when heating it, STOP applying heat IMMEDIATELY. But do NOT flash cool it in water either. Way too hard for that and you take a chance of the bearing getting internal stresses and bursting.

When cleaning the motor housing where the bearing seats, a screwdriver is your friend here. Scrape the inside of the bearing seat until there are no burs, or other crap in the seat. This is important to get the new bearings in place and fully seated.

If you take that motor apart you WILL break one or more of the main bolts that hold it together.
These can be replaced with 3/8 -16 grade 8 all thread and nuts.
Grind the remnants of the bolts off flush with the surface that they thread into.
Center punch the holes and begin drilling the holes out. You will need to start with a 1/8 bit to create a straight hole in the bolt for the additional drills to follow.
Next use a 3/16 drill to further open the hole and end with a 5/16 drill bit. This is the size of the drill hole for a 3/8 -16 tap.
You will need two taps. An standard tap and a bottoming tap. A bottoming tap id for finishing the threading in a BLIND hole. A blind hole is a hole that does NOT go clear through the material that is being tapped.
Using the starting tap first, tap the hole until the tap stops in the bottom of the hole. DO NOT FORCE A TAP. Taps are also made of a very hard steel that is brittle. Breaking a tap off in a hole is a HUGE problem.
Once you have the hole tapped with the standard tap use the bottoming tap to finish tapping the hole / holes.

Then use the all thread in place of the bolts. Use a nut and washer on the top and silicone the tops to keep moisture out of the motor.

[Tboltguy]

Thank you!