Thunderbolt Siren Rotator Question

[Charlie Davidson]

Please watch the video, and comment or respond with a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPKvhu4cKko

[flyonby13]

the chopper runs on 120VAC or 240 VAC because in the manual for the siren it said it can run on 100 to 240VAC. also in the RCM panel there is a transformer that changes it from 240 to 120. I dont know if that is correct. but if someone knows and can correct me then good.

[JasonC]

That motor isn't going to work for a rotator motor, for several reasons (wrong motor type, wrong face, shaft to small, wrong speed, to small, etc.)

Your power connections will work though, in fact, your 240v outlet should work just fine actually (if your not running the blower). Good luck getting the siren though.

[holler]

Charlie you need a 1/3 horsepower split-phase or capacitor start motor, that spins at around 1725-1900 RPM, and has a NEMA frame 56. The 56 is very important, as it assures that the motor will mount up correctly inside the rotator box without a bunch of hassle. Somebody else here can give you the shaft diameter.

P.S., There are only about three people who have replied to your video on youtube who actually know what they are talking about, so be careful who you listen to and don't burn your house down or blow yourself up.

[CDV777-1]

You can't use that motor as a T-bolt rotator motor. If you do get an old T-bolt head with a 3 phase rotator just pull the motor and measure everything on it and get a 1/3hp cap start motor to replace it. You can run a 1/3hp motor and the chopper easily with what you have there. No blower though. And there's no "positive and negative" on that wall outlet. There's hot and neutral. It's AC current.

My 1st Thunderbolt 1000 that I restored had a short rotator box and the 1 phase cap start motor I got for it wouldn't fit. The cap cover hit the bottom of the box. I had to move the cap cover over a little so it would fit. It originally had a 3 phase rotator motor that fit fine. The later model 1000T I had had a taller rotator box. I think it was taller by about an inch. Actually it wasn't "taller." The bottom of the rotator box was an inch lower from the motor/gear reducer mounting plate so a 1 phase rotator motor with a cap on top of the motor would fit into the box. I guess all the older rotator boxes were shorter. By older I mean 1950s vintage. I guess they used something other than a cap start motors for the single phase rotators on the earlier models. Maybe repulsion induction motors like the blowers? I don't know.

[Jim Z]

No blower though. And there's no "positive and negative" on that wall outlet. There's hot and neutral. It's AC current.

to clarify, that is a NEMA 14-30R. The top prong is equipment ground, the bottom is neutral, and the others are 120 VAC and 120VAC, with each hot leg being 180? out of phase with the other, giving you 240 VAC between them.

This is pretty much how almost all residential mains feeds are; split single-phase 240 VAC. Appliances like electric ovens and dryers supply the 240 VAC to the heater coils, then run the controls off of one of the 120 legs.

http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardware%2 ... m#30%20Amp.

[Jpressman8]

If your not sure the best way is to read up on it before you mess with it be careful and don't blow yourself up...