Robert Gift
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Thu Nov 08, 2007 5:29 pm

Not made in Mars, PA? Why the name?

Interesting - their version of the Q.

A lot of sound emits from the front (rotor intake) of the Q.
That red light blocks that sound.
Maybe reflects more of it right and left - that would be good if not causing cancellation of stator output sound waves.

Did their rotating beacon only oscillate? Or id it rotate 360?
I saw a 4 PAR-36 bulb beacon which only sweeps 90 degrees.

Interesting "mini lightbar". Was this made long before light bars were invented?

Thanks for the photos, Rheems

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Rheems1
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Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:12 pm

Actually the red thing in the middle is the Mars logo plate... it does look like a light in that picture though. I have actually heard this one.. it sounds exactly like a Q siren and is very, very loud. I have never gotten to see an Aurora Boeralis light in person or activated.. Chicago had a huge amount of them on thier older (50's) fire trucks. Some of the rotating beacons do 360 some do a 180 instead... I have seen both. Some are what is known as a hill light... I have been looking for a hill light for a long time (brand doesn't matter though). It is a 4 beacon rotator with 1 lamp pointing up in the air and 1 lamp pointing down towards the road... it is pretty neat looking!! You are welcome for the pictures also!!

Dave

Robert Gift
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Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:56 pm

Rheems1 wrote:...known as a hill light... I have been looking for a hill light for a long time (brand doesn't matter though). It is a 4 beacon rotator with 1 lamp pointing up in the air and 1 lamp pointing down towards the road...Dave
I have seen beacons with a PAR-36 bulb pointing 45(?) degrees up. To signal a helicopter?
To shine up a hill a firetruck is approaching?
Seems too steep for that. What is the purpose?
Had no idea anyonelse made a siren so closely resembling a Federal Q.
Thanks.

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Shinkansen
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Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:05 pm

Hey guys, there might be something wrong with my lights. :shock: I recently hooked em up to a 12v DC power supply, and the only thing that worked was the rotator, they didn't light up! The bulbs filaments are fine too...what's goin on?? :shock:
Blades will bleed. Shields Will Shatter. But as the light fades, will the Hero rise again? Or will darkness rein?

Robert Gift
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Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:24 pm

Shinkansen wrote:Hey guys, there might be something wrong with my lights. :shock: I recently hooked em up to a 12v DC power supply, and the only thing that worked was the rotator, they didn't light up! The bulbs filaments are fine too...what's goin on?? :shock:
Should be easy to fix.
Good ground?
Internal wires connected to their proper terminals?
(On our FS Streethawk, some bulbs would go on and off in time with the rotator revolution.
I discovered those bulb base sleeves, into which the bulbs insert, were poorly "riveted" and their grounds would open and close.
Federal Signal instructed we buy new tripods.
After I warned they could be sued if we were involved in an accident and their lights were not working properly, they reluctantly sent some properly made rotator tripods. Slightly different improved design.)

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Shinkansen
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Fri Nov 09, 2007 4:31 am

Robert Gift wrote:
Shinkansen wrote:Hey guys, there might be something wrong with my lights. :shock: I recently hooked em up to a 12v DC power supply, and the only thing that worked was the rotator, they didn't light up! The bulbs filaments are fine too...what's goin on?? :shock:
Should be easy to fix.
Good ground?
Internal wires connected to their proper terminals?
(On our FS Streethawk, some bulbs would go on and off in time with the rotator revolution.
I discovered those bulb base sleeves, into which the bulbs insert, were poorly "riveted" and their grounds would open and close.
Federal Signal instructed we buy new tripods.
After I warned they could be sued if we were involved in an accident and their lights were not working properly, they reluctantly sent some properly made rotator tripods. Slightly different improved design.)
I'm no electronics whiz..how, would I go about seeing if everythin on my MARS lights are good?
Blades will bleed. Shields Will Shatter. But as the light fades, will the Hero rise again? Or will darkness rein?

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loudmouth
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Fri Nov 09, 2007 3:12 pm

well i would say try to conect up each light by its self, or each bulb see if they will light. try the contact areas like were they spin. just dont cross the wires.
What kind of power sorcie are you useing?

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Shinkansen
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Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:06 pm

loudmouth wrote:well i would say try to conect up each light by its self, or each bulb see if they will light. try the contact areas like were they spin. just dont cross the wires.
What kind of power sorcie are you useing?
I'm using a multi-voltage adapter that puts out 1.5v, 3.0v, 6.5v, 7.5v, 9.0v, and 12.0v DC.
Blades will bleed. Shields Will Shatter. But as the light fades, will the Hero rise again? Or will darkness rein?

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JasonC
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Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:44 pm

Shinkansen wrote:
loudmouth wrote:well i would say try to conect up each light by its self, or each bulb see if they will light. try the contact areas like were they spin. just dont cross the wires.
What kind of power sorcie are you useing?
I'm using a multi-voltage adapter that puts out 1.5v, 3.0v, 6.5v, 7.5v, 9.0v, and 12.0v DC.
if your talking about a power adapter like you plug a small clock or radio up to, they don't give out enough power to run the light. You need a car battery.

Robert Gift
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Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:58 pm

Shinkansen wrote:... I'm using a multi-voltage adapter that puts out 1.5v, 3.0v, 6.5v, 7.5v, 9.0v, and 12.0v DC.
Oh, you need much more power (amperage) than that electronic power supply can put out.
Best and easiest is to connect to a car battery right in the vehicle.
When testing, I run the B+ from the red post on the battery through a headlight or brake light bulb filament.
That way, if you short anything, it is not a true short circuit and there will be no damage.
Or a car battery charger on 6-volt setting.
12-Volt setting is actually 14.something volts - better to undervoltage than over voltage.
Good luck.

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