SD-10 help

[Jim Z]

ya but for some reason it feels like someone super glued the chopper to the stator and motor. I unscrewed every screw possible. Il try to get it out tomorrow. If it doesent work il make a video of it so maby someone can further help me with it.

no, it was probably pressed on. Which is why you need a puller tool as has been repeatedly said.

[holler]

Everybody else has said already and I'm going to say it again so maybe it will get through your head, get a puller. That rotor is not coming off without one, and soak it in skunk pee or some other good penetrating lubricant 48 hours in advance. If it gets to a certain point and won't go anymore spray some more and leave it alone and try it again tommorow.

The rotor is pressed onto the shaft and will have to pressed back on when you are done. It's called an interference fit.

[Robert Gift]

After soaking with penetrating oil, could you screw a bolt into each of those holes seen in the photo?

Then use a claw of a crowbar to pull on the bolt head, hitting the crowbar from underneath with a hammer and alternating between bolts?

Or, what about heating the rotor with a flood lamp, shielding the shaft end with aluminum foil to not heat it.
Maybe the expansion will break the adhesion.

Before trying to find and rent a puller, I'd try these techniques.

[Jim Z]

Before trying to find and rent a puller, I'd try these techniques.

I wouldn't. renting/borrowing a puller is cheap. The other methods (prying with screwdrivers, etc.) all have greatly higher risk of distorting or cracking the chopper, and once you do that your day is done.

[loudmouth]

I hate to be a broken record but it is a press fit and will need lots of some sort of penetrating oil and a heavy duty pulley puller.
If that isn't working then you might even have to do a little heating with a map gas or propane torch,(possibly Oxy acetylene if you know what your doing) though i dont know how that will affect the rotor I do not think it will but when heating the rotor Just heat the rotor and not the shaft, What your doing when heating is making the metal expand by a few thousands of a inch which just gives it enough room to slide off or on when putting back to gather.


~nick

[holler]

Or, what about heating the rotor with a flood lamp, shielding the shaft end with aluminum foil to not heat it.
Maybe the expansion will break the adhesion.

There is no way a floodlamp will get hot enough to make that rotor come loose, and a lot of heating isn't recommended unless it's something that normally gets hot or you are REALLY careful not to let the heat travel down the motor shaft.

I've had to heat bolts in exhaust manifolds to the point where they are glowing red to get them finally release, so a floodlamp isn't going to cut it.

Get a puller, crowbars, screwdrivers, and yanking are how good sirens get trashed. It's always best to use the right tool for the job.

Go to your local advance auto parts and rent a harmonic balancer puller. You will pay them a deposit which will be refunded when you bring the tool back (not broken).

[Robert Gift]

There is no way a floodlamp will get hot enough to make that rotor come loose, and heating isn't recommended unless it's something that normally gets hot or you are REALLY careful not to let the heat travel down the motor shaft.

I've had to heat bolts in exhaust manifolds to the point where they are glowing red to get them finally release, so a floodlamp isn't going to cut it.

Get a puller, crowbars, screwdrivers, and yanking are how good sirens get trashed. It's always best to use the right tool for the job.

I'd be afraid to heat it with anything other than a flood lamp, which produces a very even heat, slowly, without getting anything too hot or causing uneven expansion.

No mention of screw drivers.

But if those are threaded bolt holes in the photo, I'd like to attach a bar through both bolts and tap the bar evenly on both ends beyond the rotor.

Otherwise, where does a puller attach to the rotor without damaging it?

Thank you.

[holler]

There is no way a floodlamp will get hot enough to make that rotor come loose, and heating isn't recommended unless it's something that normally gets hot or you are REALLY careful not to let the heat travel down the motor shaft.

I've had to heat bolts in exhaust manifolds to the point where they are glowing red to get them finally release, so a floodlamp isn't going to cut it.

Get a puller, crowbars, screwdrivers, and yanking are how good sirens get trashed. It's always best to use the right tool for the job.

I'd be afraid to heat it with anything other than a flood lamp, which produces a very even heat, slowly, without getting anything too hot or causing uneven expansion.

No mention of screw drivers.

But if those are threaded bolt holes in the photo, I'd like to attach a bar through both bolts and tap the bar evenly on both ends beyond the rotor.

Otherwise, where does a puller attach to the rotor without damaging it?

Thank you.

The puller ha sa bar through both of the outer bolt holes and a jackscrew in the middle that presses down on the motor shaft.

Once again, the puller is the best way to get it off, Those nice little bolt holes are there for a reason.

Umm how many times do I have to say that a floodlight is highly ineffective? A floodlight can't even keep a can of paint warm in cold weather. It can't heat steel enough to make the rotor slip right off, nope, nada, ain't gonna work.

[Robert Gift]

There is no way a floodlamp will get hot enough to make that rotor come loose, and heating isn't recommended unless it's something that normally gets hot or you are REALLY careful not to let the heat travel down the motor shaft.
I've had to heat bolts in exhaust manifolds to the point where they are glowing red to get them finally release, so a floodlamp isn't going to cut it.
Get a puller, crowbars, screwdrivers, and yanking are how good sirens get trashed. It's always best to use the right tool for the job.

I'd be afraid to heat it with anything other than a flood lamp, which produces a very even heat, slowly, without getting anything too hot or causing uneven expansion.
No mention of screw drivers.
But if those are threaded bolt holes in the photo, I'd like to attach a bar through both bolts and tap the bar evenly on both ends beyond the rotor.
Otherwise, where does a puller attach to the rotor without damaging it?
Thank you.

The puller has a bar through both of the outer bolt holes and a jackscrew in the middle that presses down on the motor shaft.
Once again, the puller is the best way to get it off, Those nice little bolt holes are there for a reason.
Umm how many times do I have to say that a floodlight is highly ineffective? A floodlight can't even keep a can of paint warm in cold weather. It can't heat steel enough to make the rotor slip right off, nope, nada, ain't gonna work.

Thanks.
I wondered if that was what those holes were for.

I have used the floodlight method successfully several times.
It is slow but at least I am not causing thermal shock or uneven heating.

Yes, those puller holes are they way to go.
I would not risk jury-rigging my method when you have those holes there for that purpose.
A balanced rotor is too important.

[pyramid head]

Why take it apart for testing? If you just want to know if it works bring it to some place with 3 phase and rig it up on a breaker. A quick flip will tell you if it is dead or alive.