Norman, Oklahoma Thunderbolt 1000T Unit #2 Granted Reprieve

[woodyrr]

It's not nearly as exciting as a 220V chopper run up, but it's what I've been doing with the Thunderbolt.

I have built a blower pallet that as far as I can tell is very close to those shipped with the Thunderbolt. This one is made from pressure treated lumber which is certified for ground contact.


Thunderbolt Blower Skid by woodyrr, on Flickr

I placed the blower frame on the skid at the approximate location where I intend to install the siren and set the blower and blower motor on it.


Blower Frame on the Skid by woodyrr, on Flickr

I installed the blower cover to keep the interior components out of the weather until I am ready to clean and paint the blower frame.


Blower Cover on the Skid by woodyrr, on Flickr

The 1-800-Call-OKIE guy came out today and painted lines on the grass and stuck flags in the ground so that I could get an idea where not to plant the Thunderbolt. I did not like to have them take the time to come out on such a small and shallow dig, but I was once gravely embarrassed when I cut a buried residential phone line by digging literally no deeper than a standard shovel.


Utilities Located by woodyrr, on Flickr

I found that I need to move it a little closer to the house and closer to the fence so that I have room for the gas line to be replaced one day if necessary.

The next step will be to dig for a 4" concrete slab and fill the forms up with a bunch of concrete mix and insert a couple of bolt anchors.

Fun? Fun? Fun?

[woodyrr]

As time has permitted, I have been working trying to get the preliminary work done for my Thunderbolt restoration.

I have poured the slab for the blower, stripped the forms, and backfilled the area around the pad. The blower skid has been bolted to the slab and the hardware cloth has been applied to the top of the skid.

I have finally started working on the siren itself. I cleaned up the blower frame and began applying rusty metal primer to the parts to be painted black.


Blower Pad and Skid by woodyrr, on Flickr

[Thunderboltlover]

Looking great so far!

[woodyrr]

Thank you for the encouragement!

I have another progress report.

Yesterday, I outlined where the logos were placed on the blower cover so that I know where to locate the replacement decals. The emblems are not in the same place on both sides.


Thunderbolt Blower Cover Logo Placement (S) by woodyrr, on Flickr


Thunderbolt Blower Cover Logo Placement (N) by woodyrr, on Flickr

I also painted the blower frame and bolted it to the skid. I then installed the blower, blower motor, overpressure valve and weights. I cleaned most of the accumulated grease and grime off of the blower, but decided to just brush the dust and grass off the motor. Pictures of the blower and motor are deceiving: both are actually very large and very heavy. According to the Thunderbolt Service Manual, these components plus the cover weighs 585 pounds. I don't doubt it. Out of concern that I may injure myself, I have not tried to lift any of them. I use a hand truck and ramps to help me scoot them into place. If I never have to fool with the blower parts again it will still be too soon.


Thunderbolt Blower and Motor Installed by woodyrr, on Flickr

The next step will be to figure out how to smooth out some minor ripples in one corner of the top of the blower cover and then to strip off the paint.


Thunderbolt Blower Box Ready For Stripping by woodyrr, on Flickr

[woodyrr]

I have stripped the paint from the blower cover.


Blower Cover Stripped by woodyrr, on Flickr

[dilloncarpenter]

Looks clean! Did you use the spray on stripper or something else?

[woodyrr]

Thanks!

I used Zinsser Spray on Stripper. It's the same stuff antiwhoknows used on his. Since he had such good luck with it, I had Lowe's special order some for me. I had to order a full case which is four gallons and I've used about 1 1/4 gallons stripping the two control cabinet boxes and covers and the blower cover.

For the most part, the paint bubbles up into little mountains and almost falls off. What remains requires a second application of stripper followed by some fairly serious scraping and then a final buffing with steel wool.

[dilloncarpenter]

I used Crown Tuff-Strip after I found out how the Citristrip didn't work. That worked pretty good when it did work. The only trouble I had was the inside of the horn. The little bits of paint left I got off quickly with a wire wheel.

[woodyrr]

Today was one of those days when I had quite a bit of down time at work while waiting for finishes to dry.

I decided to spend some time on the rotator box. I took the access panels off and recorded the location of the decal so that I know where to put the replacement.

I then stripped the panels. It's funny but sometimes as was the case with these panels, the paint bubbles up in minutes and just literally slides off leaving a surface ready for repair and primer.

The last down period, I decided to strip the horn. The paint did not bubble up and slide off of it. I got most of the paint off, but it is going to require some more work before it is ready for primer.

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Thunderbolt Rotator Cabinet Side Panel Logo Location by woodyrr, on Flickr

[holler]

If the original paint is adhered that well to the metal, just go over it with an orbital sander and some 40 grit paper. That's what I did on several of my sirens. Any paint that is poorly adhered will be ripped off by the sander while the remaining paint will be scuffed up enough to adhere to the primer.

However, take it down to bare metal on the bottom edge where the mounting holes are at and on the sides that wrap around the corners. That is where rust likes to hide.