The Siren Board

I don't know if all the sticker placement measuring was necessary on that rotator panel.
Federal just slapped those on the rotator boxes. I've seen those put on it all kinds of haphazard ways.
If it was me I would just center it on the panel where it looked good instead of putting it back in the slapped-on off-center position it was in.

CDV777-1 wrote:I don't know if all the sticker placement measuring was necessary on that rotator panel.
Federal just slapped those on the rotator boxes. I've seen those put on it all kinds of haphazard ways.
If it was me I would just center it on the panel where it looked good instead of putting it back in the slapped-on off-center position it was in.

I agree. I did measurements on all of the old decals for my rotator a few weeks ago before I striped it. I wanted the new decals to be in the same position. After finding out that all of the decals were put on in a rather loose at best location compared to the opposite side I decided I am just going to center them by my own measurements.

Justin

I agree that the decal would look better centered rather than where it was and that is what I'll ultimately do. I did want a record of where they were before I stripped them off.

I wonder why after all of the care Federal took in designing and assembling these Thunderbolts, they finished them off with sloppy decal application.

I am also seriously considering going with the modern FS Thunderbolt decals. Despite its uniqueness, I just cannot warm up to the mid 1970s logo.

I have finally begun disassembling the siren part of my Thunderbolt. Here some of the parts to the head are scattered on my workbench


Thunderbolt Parts by woodyrr, on Flickr

I spun up the chopper a couple of times on 120V before I took everything apart. I am kidding myself if I think I am ever going to run 220 volts to the siren to run the rotator.

Does anyone know how to reconfigure the wires so that the rotator motor will run on 120V?

I cannot determine the manufacturer of the motor, but I am guessing that it is a Dayton. Currently there are 6 wires:

3 - 8 - 2 are wired together.

4 - 5 were wired to one phase of the 220V hot.

1 was wired to the other phase of the 220V hot.

There was no neutral, so I suppose that the motor got its neutral from being connected to the cabinet.

6 - 7 if they ever existed, were not in the bundle exiting the motor.

Yes that is a Dayton, 1/3 horsepower. How are the bearings in it?

To run it on 120 you wire:

T1,T3,T8-Line

T2,T4,T5-Line

holler wrote:How are the bearings in it?

I'll wire it up and run it sometime next week. It turns OK by hand as far as I can tell.

Just before I disconnected the siren, I witnessed the last test. The entire siren sounded good and healthy and the horn spun around nice and easy at 8 RPM (not a misprint). There were gobs of grease everywhere including all over the little and big gears.

I have no reason to believe that the motor is not in decent shape.

Turn down your speakers!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDaiV-x7i1Q

Yeah just curious because the last two Dayton rotator motors I've done needed new bearings. They run fine but roared like crazy.

At least they are easy to change on that motor. Just make sure you get the right internal diameter size, there are three different ones for that bearing number.

Blinding Yellow Thunderbolt Siren by woodyrr, on Flickr

Over the past two or three weeks, as time has permitted, I have been priming and painting my Thunderbolt.

I ran the rotator motor and it appears to run fine.

That looks great! Good work.

Justin

Cannot wait to see it fully finished and assembled .