Metal filler?

[JasonC]

Alright, so I've sandblasted all the paint and about about as much rust as I can off of my 1003 solenoid bar. What remains now is bad divots and holes in the metal. I was wondering what you guys would recommend as a filler? I was able to blast about 98% of the rust from the exterior of the bar, about 93% from the inside. The rust that remains on the inside is the deep rust resting inside of the divots. I want something to fill in the divots, as well as seal up the rust to prevent further deterioration. I was thinking bondo, any other thoughts or ideas? Here's some pix for you guys. The first two pix were taken while I was sanding (before I sandblasted), I actually had to use a sawzaw to chip and pound away some of the rust. The rust had been spray painted over. The third pic was in the middle of blasting, with the outside completely done. You can see the blasted divots easier. I have maximum strength Rustoleum Stops Rust Rusty Metal Primer I plan to prime the bar with. (btw, I was using girlfriends crappy camera so sorry about the quality.)







If you look close in this picture, you can see where the bar's weld has split (actually, I think they brazed that part) I'll have to weld that back, as well as another joint or two.
Help me out!

[Gents']

I am not sure about the international sales of such products. I used UniBond (Henkel) "Repair Metal For Good". It is a metal filler. This may be useless information if you don't have it there, I hope you do though, it really is good.

[Robert Gift]

... (btw, I was using girlfriends crappy camera so sorry about the quality.)

Are you blaming her camera, when it is really your inability to focus close-up?
I would not apply filler to the inside. I would be afraid more rust would occur under the filler.

[loudmouth]

Well you might be able to do the oldschool method of filling dents with a tin/lead mix that comes in a stick that you melt into a puddel and then using wooden forms to smooth it out. i belave its more of a tin then lead mix(old school body shops use it and some of the top car builders use it.)
and dont leave it in primer to long or out side at all. Primer is what the name inplies its just a primer and is not water proof and will acctuly suck up mositure and let the rust continue under the primer.

[JasonC]

Ugh, I guess I'm gonna take the Dremel and sawsaw to it again. I actually had to cut the solenoid cover mounts off to; I'll have to fabricate new ones. Thankfully, this seems to be the only real intensive work on the siren....I hope anyways!

[kx250rider]

Go to an auto paint & body supply store, and ask what they have. There is something called Kitty Whisker filler, and there is also a pseudo-metal Bondo that looks and works like metal.

Charles

[Jim_Ferer]

There's another product in the US called Liquid Steel. Have you thought of cutting out a "hitchhiker" (laminate) and putting it over the bottom of the box?

[CABLEVision]

I would go with bondo.

[JasonC]

There's another product in the US called Liquid Steel. Have you thought of cutting out a "hitchhiker" (laminate) and putting it over the bottom of the box?

Hmmmmm, explain? Haha, I'm interested! My dad luckily had a Flex-Shaft attachment I was able to use on my Dremel tool and I was able to grind most of the rest of the rust away. Now, I need to weld two of the seems (one thats completely popped in half), grind down whats left of the cover mounts, fill in the holes, and paint the unit. Hopefully I'll have it done tomorrow along with the chopper assembly. This is the most tedious work I think I've ever done, I've spent almost a week on this one solenoid bar!

BTW, does anyone here know the Grainger part number for the chopper bearings?

[AllSafe]

Is there a number and brand on those bearings?
The Federal Signal part number for them is 8239A045.