The Siren Board

Hi everyone , new here. I am restoring an old Federal2. They rewired the firehouse in 1996. Removing the wiring from the starter. Federal sent me the manual on the federal 2. But the starter that was installed in the firehouse has a 1RC2 starter, and the wiring diagram for a RC2 looks different. Is there a difference in a RC2 and 1RC2

The manual they probably sent you is a RC2-W manual. That is what they send the the new model 2's. I will look through my manuals to see if I can find you some information on your contactor. It looks to the same as a regular RC2. So you should have no problem.

Edit this is what I have in my Model 2 Manual hope it helps.

The pdf service manual they sent was for older federal 2,5sd10,sth10 and stl10. The starter shows the rc120/240 and rcw120/240. It is dated June 1979 But no 1RC2
It looks like there might have been a schematic on the inside of the cover. I bet it fell off when they pulled all the wires. And long gone.
They built the firehouse in 1972. I started in 1974. There was just a momentary button at the front desk. I have the siren working now after turning the armature down. And ordered a few parts from federal today. But the starter I have shown in the picture looks very different than the one in the manual.

Yes that is page 19 of what they sent. Look at page 50 for parts of your manual. Then look at the picture. Does it look the same to you? It just seems like there is more there than an rc2. Although I am not an electrician.

I have the same motor starter. Here Is how it should be wired up.

Red - Power out
Dark blue - power in
Purple - Control circuit

Here is a link to the topic I started for my siren. You may find it helpful. https://airraidsirens.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12635

Thanks so much. Is the blue power in 110 or 220?The metal tag on the cover says it is a 110.
The siren2 is 220.
The control circuit is confusing. What is its function.

Are you sure this is the same contactor that was on the Model 2? I personally think it is a 220V coil. So that means if you want the coil to engage transfering the power to the siren 220 v has to be applied to the two screws I drew purple on. In order for you siren to function correctly you will need to put 220V in the blue screws. Judging by your amperage on the tag it is a 220v contactor not 110v if it was a 110v contactor the amperage would be way higher.

I am pretty sure it is the same contactor. The conduit was still run. We followed one conduit back to breaker box. Wire and breakers were removed. There was 2 breakers removed as if it was 220. One conduit going up the hose tower to a box that still had the wires run to a junction box and then aluminum wires to the siren motor. There was a total of three conduit coming out of the contactor box. The third went into the ceiling and I only assume it went to the front office for the momentary switch. The wires are gone. I thought. Maybe. They were using 110 to pull the contactor in to supply 220 to the siren.

That's a 110 coil in that contactor. Just use a neutral and one leg of your 220 for the siren to control it.

DO NOT put 220 to that coil.

Jeb, It is kind of weird that my coil is a 220v one but is has the same replacement coil number as his 110v one. Don't you think they would have different part numbers?