AR Timer help.

[Valra Bellkeys]

You shouldn't be using any kind of "wall adapter" to plug it in. With your power wires hooked up to 8 and 9 you should plug it into a 120V wall outlet with regular plug.
When you plug it in the amber light should come on and stay on all the time. The red light should only come on when the timer is cycling.
You haven't even said if the cams are (or aren't) moving when the red light is on. Are they moving when the red light is on?

Err, that is what I meant. I did use a 120v wall outlet, and yes I did have it hooked to 8 and 9. The amber light does not come on. When I do power it on, the red light will turn on and all the cams are moving. Also, it only stays on for a minute or so, than it stops, the light turns off, and I can't turn on the AR timer for another few hours for some reason.

[CDV777-1]

Err, that is what I meant. I did use a 120v wall outlet, and yes I did have it hooked to 8 and 9. The amber light does not come on. When I do power it on, the red light will turn on and all the cams are moving. Also, it only stays on for a minute or so, than it stops, the light turns off, and I can't turn on the AR timer for another few hours for some reason.

I don't see how someone will be able to help with this without being able to see what the timer is doing "in person." Also if you have no idea how to use a meter for testing and how to read a wiring diagram I don't know how it will be possible to help you figure this out with messages.

Do you understand how the timer cams work and what to watch for (if all cams are moving, what position they are in etc.)? When it's actually running are all the cams moving together. Are the little switch rollers following the cams?

I can't imagine any situation where an AR would run for only a minute unless there is something mechanically wrong. Have you actually timed it to make sure it's only running for a minute?
If the cams are actually moving at all then the amber light should be on. Also, if timer runs at all both fuses are good.
If the timer actually does come on and run and the amber light isn't on then the light is bad.

Here is a link to the timer manual. The wiring diagrams are on page 5 and the manual explains exactly how the thing works.
http://www.civildefensemuseum.com/siren ... Manual.pdf

[Valra Bellkeys]

Here is the video of the timer... It does weird things. The test button does nothing, the cancel button only actually cancels the signal right at the beginning of it.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM3cIc25PHM

[CDV777-1]

I have no idea why you think there is something wrong with that timer other than the power (amber) lamp.
That timer cycled for exactly 3 minutes both times and turned itself off at the end of it's cycle.

It was hard to tell with all the back and forth, door opening and closing and button pushing.
What was all the back and forth button pushing for? Just push alert or attack and let it run.
Have you ever hooked a meter or continuity tester to terminals 1 and 2 to see if it is switching like it's supposed to?

You should have continuity across 1 and 2 whenever you push the test button, for three minutes in alert and for three minutes
(cycling off and on) in attack.

The test button doesn't do anything other than close the circuit between 1 and 2. It doesn't start the timer.

When you push cancel you will lose continuity across 1 and 2 if the timer is cycling. The timer doesn't turn off when you push cancel.
The timer continues to run until it's 3 minute cycle is done when the cancel button is pushed. All cancel does is open circuit that is
closed between terminals 1 and 2.

[gman 1]

I have an AR & AF timer manual I can email you if you'd like. PM me your email address and I can have it on its way.

[Valra Bellkeys]

I have no idea why you think there is something wrong with that timer other than the power (amber) lamp.
That timer cycled for exactly 3 minutes both times and turned itself off at the end of it's cycle.

It was hard to tell with all the back and forth, door opening and closing and button pushing.
What was all the back and forth button pushing for? Just push alert or attack and let it run.
Have you ever hooked a meter or continuity tester to terminals 1 and 2 to see if it is switching like it's supposed to?

You should have continuity across 1 and 2 whenever you push the test button, for three minutes in alert and for three minutes
(cycling off and on) in attack.

The test button doesn't do anything other than close the circuit between 1 and 2. It doesn't start the timer.

When you push cancel you will lose continuity across 1 and 2 if the timer is cycling. The timer doesn't turn off when you push cancel.
The timer continues to run until it's 3 minute cycle is done when the cancel button is pushed. All cancel does is open circuit that is
closed between terminals 1 and 2.

Oh! Thanks! If it is fine, how can I wire my model L to it?

[CDV777-1]

I have an AR & AF timer manual I can email you if you'd like. PM me your email address and I can have it on its way.

I posted a link to the manual three posts above this one.

Oh! Thanks! If it is fine, how can I wire my model L to it?

I don't know if it's "fine." All I can tell from the video is that it cycled for 3 minutes both times.
Hook a meter up to terminals 1 and 2 and see if you have continuity there when the test switch is pressed.
If you don't have a meter you can hook up a battery and a light bulb to the two terminals to see if they are switching.

Continuity means you have a connection between terminals 1 and 2. The timer is only a timed switch. That's all it is. It's like light switch with a three minute timer on it. The timer doesn't power the siren. It only turns it on and off.

Leave the meter hooked up to terminals 1 and 2.

If you do have continuity between terminals 1 and 2 with the Test button pushed, release it and then push the Alert button until the red light comes on and the timer starts cycling. Don't start mashing all the other buttons repeatedly (like you did in the video).

Just leave the thing alone after you push Alert.
With the timer running in Alert there should be continuity between 1 and 2 until the timer cycles off.

If Alert works like I described above then do the same thing with the Attack signal. Push the Attack button until the red light comes on and the timer starts it's cycle. The timer should run for three minutes and you should get an on/off cycle at the 1 and 2 terminals as the timer does it's attack signal.

If you push the Cancel button at any time during attack or alert then there will be no continuity between terminals 1 and 2 but the timer will continue it's cycle until it's three minutes are up.

As far as hooking up the Model L to it I have explained that the AR timer is only a switch.
I ran my Model A switching it directly through the timer. The manual (as I linked to above. Have you read it?) states that the switch contacts in the AR can handle 15 amps AC. If your Model L is a 120 volt Model L then you should be able to switch it through the timer. I seriously doubt a 120 Volt Model L pulls anywhere near that. It should just pull a few amps.

I can't explain it any further really. I think that's about it.

[Valra Bellkeys]

I didn't have any extra lights lying around to use. I just put my Model L on terminal 1 and 2, and tried it. Since in all honesty its basically a light.. but with noise instead. It wouldn't work, the timer was doing things, but not a peep from the siren. I tried wiring the siren both ways... nothing is happening! Any suggestions?

[CDV777-1]

I was lazy, so I just put my Model L on terminal 1 and 2. It wouldn't work, the timer was doing things, but not a peep from the siren. I tried wiring the siren both ways... nothing is happening! Any suggestions?

I'm so glad to have spent all this time trying to help you and then I get a reply like that.
If you don't know how to hook up a switch to something I don't know how to help you especially if you say you are "lazy."
That says to me you are just messing around and aren't serious to learn how this works.
I mistakenly thought you really wanted to learn something here.
I repeatedly told you that an AR timer is only a switch. Terminals 1 and 2 only turn on and off they don't power anything.
I can't make it any simpler than this. ....

1. Get another separate wall plug and and cord for the siren. Power the timer with one cord and the siren with another.
2.The hot wire (black) from wall plug connects to timer [terminal 1] ,
3. Then another hot wire (black) connects from timer [terminal 2] and then connects to your Model L siren.
4. The neutral wire (white) from the wall plug connects straight to the siren.

This is the schematic...


----------------------------hot (black) wire -----------------[timer terminal 1] [timer terminal 2]--------------------------- Connects To
120volt wall plug
----------------------------neutral (white) wire------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model L Siren

[SoundMaster 391]

I was lazy, so I just put my Model L on terminal 1 and 2. It wouldn't work, the timer was doing things, but not a peep from the siren. I tried wiring the siren both ways... nothing is happening! Any suggestions?

I'm so glad to have spent all this time trying to help you and then I get a reply like that.
If you don't know how to hook up a switch to something I don't know how to help you especially if you say you are "lazy."
That says to me you are just messing around and aren't serious to learn how this works.
I mistakenly thought you really wanted to learn something here.
I repeatedly told you that an AR timer is only a switch. Terminals 1 and 2 only turn on and off they don't power anything.
I can't make it any simpler than this. ....

Valtonus. I really suggest that you listen to CDV777-1. He is really trying to help you out here, but it looks like your more busy fooling around with the AR and Model L than listening to CDV's advice and instructions. I can tell that he is starting to get very irritated / annoyed that your are totally ignoring what he had to say. The AR is not hard to understand if you know how it works. Did you ever look at the manual that CDV suggested you to read? That manual will help you fully understand more about how the AR works. Now moving on about your AR Timer. From what I can see yes your AR seems to be working perfectly fine now. The only reason why it wasn't working before was because there was no wire going between the terminals 15 and 16.