MIKEY
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Location: Florence, Texas.

P-10

Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:57 pm

I thought Rio Vista had a 2-T-22 with the wierd horn configuration.

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texaschad25
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Re: P-10

Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:51 am

MIKEY wrote:I thought Rio Vista had a 2-T-22 with the wierd horn configuration.
We do, but we just installed this P10 in a housing addition on the north side of town that the 2t22 wont reach.

MIKEY
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P-10

Thu Mar 13, 2008 9:37 pm

With those two sirens you ought to have good coverage. I drove through Rio Vista last year. nice town,

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ver tum
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Re: P-10 installed today with pics

Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:23 am

Hey Chad, I talked about your P-10 problem today with my grandpa, who is really good with electric motors. He said that he had a very similar problem with a brand new dryer he was helping someone install. Electric dryers also have capacitor start 240 volt motors. He figured out the problem when he opened up the breaker box, and found that one of the lugs in the box had worked it's way loose, causing the electricity to ark. This was causing the dryer not to get the full second leg of the 240 volt current, makeing it not start or heat properly. He says that this can sometimes happen with 240 volt breaker boxes. He also suggested that you check the voltage at the motor with a volt meter. I hope this gets you going in the right direction.
Josh
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texaschad25
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Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:43 am

WEll Josh....We are going to go back out on Monday and mess with it again. I will take a look at that and see what it looks like. I appreciate the heads up on that..That sure might be the problem

Chad

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ver tum
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Re: P-10 installed today with pics

Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:08 am

You may want to go on ahead and check out that breaker box as soon as you can. If it is arking, I would think that it would be a fire hazard.
Josh
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SirenTech
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Fri Mar 21, 2008 7:09 pm

A single-phase P-10 should reach maximum RPM after 4-7 seconds. You never got close to max RPM. The single-phase P-10 controller is complicated with the start/run capacitors switched out with the voltage sensing relay. One poor connection and the motor will not start right. A word of caution - the motor will fry very quickly if you run it too much incorrectly wired. If the electrical service was too small, something would have tripped, breaker, fuse or even the primary on the transfomer from the utility company. I think your problem is in the controller, it sounds like the start capacitors are not in-circuit when you start the siren which is why it starts so slow. It like a car trying to start in 3rd gear. You also have to check the rotation of the impeller, it produces 1/3 less sound output if it rotates backwards. There is alot that can be wrong, do you have a schematic of the controller to verify the wiring?

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texaschad25
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P-10 UPDATE. It is Fixed !!

Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:30 pm

The master electricain called me thursday afternoon and said that he had found the problem with the P-10. He said that the coil wire??? was burned up and was completely ruined. So after repalcing it, he said that the siren will was running like it is supposed to. I was on vacation when all of this was taking place but we have a test coming up very soon and i will get a video of it. He said the siren gets to full speed in 2-3 seconds now.

Thanks to everyone for their input on this matter. From what he said, it took a few hours of testing and probing before he found the problem. But the siren should be in excellent working order because every part of it has been checked. :lol:

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ver tum
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Re: P-10 UPDATE. It is Fixed !!

Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:38 pm

I'm not sure what the coil wire is, but I'm glad to hear that the siren is working properly now.
Josh
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texaschad25
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Re: P-10 UPDATE. It is Fixed !!

Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:59 pm

ver tum wrote:I'm not sure what the coil wire is, but I'm glad to hear that the siren is working properly now.
AS mentioned earlier, i am no electrician and i dont know what the coil wire is either. I thought that a coil was on a car..lol. He said that it was some kind of coil wire near the starting caps..

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