theroofable
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Wiring Help

Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:12 pm

I am wiring up a Model 2-240 with a contactor and overload bought from automation direct. The models are SC-E05-220VAC, and TK-E02-1800. These are 3 pole, and I am a little confused on what to do with the wires. A guide on the website states to take a jumper from T1 to L2. From the fused disconnect go L1 and L3 respectively, and the siren leads go to T2 and T3. However, I have seen other methods online for wiring contactors. It would seem like this would just short out when turned on. This is going to be controlled by a federal FC. Do any of the leads from the FC have to be on a T or L number? Any help would be appreciated.


Here is the wiring guide from the dealer.
http://library.automationdirect.com/how ... ue-5-2005/

Brendan Ahern
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 12:54 am

The FC will be what gets the control circuit to close the contactor. It would be wired into the "pushbutton" circuit. It would be the PLC they are talking about. I am not totally sure why they want you to go T1 to L2, but it would not cause a short. L2 on the contactor is not used for anything. You are hooking disconnect L1 to contactor L1 and disconnect L2 to contactor L3. In theory you could just use L1 and L2 and not use L3 at all. You only need 2 contact points for a single phase motor. It may also have to do with how the overloads are set up. It may want you to power all 3 overloads regardless of it being single or 3 phase. Could be a safety thing. But yes, if you hooked it up the way they want it would work and would not short out. Anyone else who would know better please chime in as most of the electric I deal with is 3 phase. Also, what kind of overload does it use? If it uses heaters, you have to buy those separately and they have to be sized to the motor. If it is solid state, you have to set it correctly, about 125% of full load amps. Just fyi.

theroofable
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 2:07 am

Heres the image the wiring diagram. It would seem to me like there should be a jumper in between L2 and L3, and then just use T1 and T3 for the siren leads. The contactor and heaters are the right ones for the siren.

Image

Brendan Ahern
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 2:10 am

Yes jumping L2 to L3 would work, but then you would still have one overload not hooked up to anything. It appears that they want you to go through all 3 heaters.

theroofable
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:53 pm

Well, I have that part wired up. I trying to use an FC to control this. However, when I have the leads of the FC hooked to A1 and A2, and activate the relay, nothing happens with the contactor. Does something else have to be jumped to get them working?

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holler
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:44 pm

Wait, did you order a 240VAC coil and are trying to use it with a 24VDC control circuit?

theroofable
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:50 pm

I can operate the siren by pressing the contactor manually. I am trying to hook this up to a federal FC. I have the two wires going to A1 and A2 on the contactor from the J7 and J8 from the FC. I believe I have to take L1 to J7 and L3 to J8 to give it the coil voltage to energize it when the FC closes its relay. Does this sound right? I can still have the FC set to 110v and use the 220 for the contactor and siren correct? I wanted it on a separate breaker.

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Stormsetter4
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:53 pm

You can switch the little switch in the bottom right corner and It will power the FC with 220. I think up is 110 and down is 220.
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holler
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:58 pm

Yes you can still run the FC off 120 since your control circuit is independent. Don't flip that switch unless you have the FC on 220, Bad things will happen.

theroofable
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Re: Wiring Help

Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:59 pm

I wasnt planning on it. Do I need to jumper L1 to J8 and L3 to J7 to get the coil to operate?

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